What adjectives do I stipulation (tools and varnish etc.) to restore my hardwood floor?
I pulled back a workstation of the carpet and looked at it and it seem to look fine but will need some work.
1) the wood currently looks painted white and I know I will involve to sand it down first.
2)What is the best type of sander for this (not too pricey) Small hand sander, belt sander? We are newly doing the living area and corridor.
3)What do I need to permeate any small cracks or small gaps contained by hardwood?
4) what do I do as far as finishing the floor (stain/varnish)?
Any info on this would be very courteous.
Answers: If the area of your floor is bigger than around 3 X 3 you would be better of renting a commercial floor sander.
A drum sander followed by a walk aft orbital sander produces the smoothest surface. The drum sander is a little difficult to master so you could newly use the orbital with first 60 grit quality newspaper and graduate down to finer.This takes rather more time than using both sanders but probably the safest for beginners.
Use an edger to get close to foundation boards.It is another type of sander specifically for,you guessed it, edges.It can be rented along with the other sanders.
If you enjoy base shoe(similar to quater round) remove that for even closer turn-up sanding.Re-install it or buy contemporary when it' s time to finish trim.
A hand belt sander would lug forever and results would be less than smooth.
Since you are sand off paint be prepared to use abundantly of sand paper.
To cram cracks be sure to use a floor filler that will accept stain if you are staining.The filler is sold surrounded by as small as 1 gal amount.It will be semi liquid.You simply pour a bit out on your floor and trowel it on with a straight, metal trowel.Once dry use the Orbital sander again next to the finest paper you can capture.
The walk down orbital sander has a dust collector that does a pretty right job of sucking up the dust but you will still obligation to vacum.
Stain your floor with a brush or tablecloth.
Let dry at least 24 hrs.
Apply an grease based sealer coat that is to say specifically formulated for floors.
After that dries apply an oil base polyurethane floor finish. Two coats of finish should do it.
Both sealer and finish should be applied with a lambs wool wipe working in one direction,not spinal column and forth, to avoid air bubbles.
You can hike on your floor usually 24 hrs. after its dry.
Do Not put rugs on it for 14 days as the finish needs this time to fully cure and become inflexible.
Good luck!
I agree with lucky except on the varnish issue. I hope he intended to say Minwax stain, not varnish. You don't put poly over varnish; it's one or the other.
After sand, apply the stain, let that dry according to instructions, and afterwards apply two coats of polyurethane. Go over the first coat with #000 steel wool and vacuum ably.
Be sure to wear a dust mask or respirator while sand.
Contractor here
If you don't already have a belt sander, I'd suggest going to Home depot, and renting one for a daytime or two. About the holes in the floor..If they are small minor holes, buy some wood putty (I'd suggest Elmer's), and formulate sure you putty the floors at least 24 hours up to that time you sand the floor, so the putty dries, and bonds to the wood. After the floor is sanded, trademark sure you clean the floors as best as you can, to avoid any dust, or dirt getting surrounded by with the stain. Next after you cleaned thoroughly, buy some minwax varnish, and run to town on the floor. After the Varnish dries (I'd wait a appropriate 24 hours), Go back over top of it beside polyurethane, to seal it, and distribute it a nice, beautiful finish. Good luck.
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