Is it really prerequisite to use cement board when placing tile on plywood, resembling for a table top?
Answers: Use a slightly thinner plywood and gum it to the backer board. You will hold adeqaute strength from the laminate and superior water protection from your sponsor board... The thicker plywood will find some use... it always does.
If here is still any concern about table strength, redesign/ supply to the table skirt (kind of like joist for a table top).
why make it OK when you can product it great with a small amount of auxiliary effort?
Cement board is used for spaces where on earth water is going to come within contact with the surface, close to a tub, shower, or around your sink. If you're not adding a sink contained by this island, then don't verbs about the cement board. You can do it directly onto the plywood.
Hi...no it is not needed...because there will be not a soul walking on your island( i hope)....the reason for cement board is because plywood is flexible...so if installing earthenware on a floor...from enough walking on it the grout begin to crack and the tiles begin to pop up and spider pattern (cracking), in a shouwer it is requisite because of water contact and on a wall it is obligatory because drywall is just surfaced beside paper and eventually the tiles will start popping sour the wall over time.... in your satchel cement board is not necesssary...it is recommended but nothing drastic is going to transpire if you don't use it....any other questions please discern free to e mail me at fastjeepchick@YAH00.COM...devout luck
I've laid some tile, floors,showers, and a couple tables(more of the mosaic type). I'm pretty sure that you need to use hardibacker(cement board) solely for showers or kitchen/bath floors. It's main purpose is to prevent any nouns /moisture from seeping up through the bottom ,thus cause the tiles to break. Hardibacker helps trademark all that out. But I don't reflect it's mandatory for your project. You won't have to verbs about spilled liquid after your table is cured and sealed. The grout is what keep anything from getting under your tiles. Make sure you hang around at least 24 hours back sealing your contemporary tile job. Maybe check out a tile book from the library or look up "How-to do -it Yourself" type of sites for tips. Good Luck!
save in mind that although stoneware tile may be impervious to water and other fluids, the grout between the tile is not. if within is a chance that something will spill near any regularity it will get through the grout and you could shutting down up with mold. this is not a situation into which you want to place your household. there is a product call tilebacker board which is available in 1/4" solidity. moisture will still get by the grout, but it will not be surrounded by contact with the wood structure which as expected is organic.
After multiple thousands of sq. ft. of tile, a simple, direct answer is... Plywood is OK/ Tile mortar will not seriously disgrace plywood in the dry time. I suggest a poly base mortar and grout however since spills are possible.
Steven Wolf
In certain applications cement board is an power but in your grip go beside it. Seal the grout when your done.
wet glue/grout on that plywood is going to trade name it expand. once it shrinks back it will crack your tiles.
trust me - i know from experience.
its worth the big picture to use the sponsor board unless you want cracked tiles.
good luck!
No, for your stated use cement board would not be needed. You can epoxy resin the tile directly to the plywood. Once the tile work is completed, wait a week consequently seal the tile and grout near a silicone sealer.
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