Laying 16" x 16" Ceramic Tiles contained by my kitchen?
I own a 50+ year outmoded house with a small kitchen, in the region of 200 sq ft. The floor was originally white earthenware tile that we did not like. Several be broken. I removed them only to find that the human being who put them down, placed them directly on top of the ingenious hard wood floor. Many of the hardwood boards be so rotton I could push a screwdriver right through with little endeavour. I removed the hardwood floor only to find that the toung & groove floor is adjectives dried out, cracked, split and weak.
I plan to replace the subfloor next to 3/4 or 5/8 plywood, then place a cloak of 1/2 hardboard (already purchased) then the tile. Since I hace never done this since (brave guy I am) I have some question.
Do I need to put a cloak of cement between the plywood and hardboard and screw it to the studs? If so what size trowel notch is needed? Advice
Answers: I see lots valid suggestions so far. Kudos to all. I TILE every afternoon of my life, and hold for my entire trades career. I'll volunteer two cents.
No you do not need to Fill spaces/butted joint, NOR do you need to "Cement" one lode to the lower one..However as one answer states, you probably should TURN the "Concrete backer board" avoiding seam over seams (not infallible what you define as HARDboard) erect with the 3/4 PLY substrate. Obvioulsy checking FLUSH beside every section installed.
One article I suggest before you lay down even one sheet of ply, is check the floor joist for stability/ rot/ LEVEL/ etc. That assumes such is the case. If the entire construction be done over a slab,,,which makes no sense at adjectives, then this is a moot point. OOPS I see you mention "Studs"
I'll assume you any have no cove end currently, or plan to remove it, to replace after the fact. I'll also assume you own "Squared" the install area to determine snapping two straight down lines, defining aesthetically, the best positioning of as many full sheets as will look best, allow any periemeter cuts if neccesary, even on different sides, to be as even as possible, in the possibility that you can shift center lines, and put by cut edges at 1/4 inch OFF the perimeter walls.
If you're using 1/4 inch grout lines, you'll make a payment 1 inch for every full tile you set, IE: 16 x 4 = 64, plus 1 inch grout, and define what might enjoy to be cut after comparing the install space to the tile layout. I very commonly lay out two opposing courses of tile to know how I might best SHIFT my center point.
Save any/all cuts until the train, at least for THE INSTALL.
I suggest a clad PolyBlend Thinset MORTAR, allowing a dry time of no less than 24, hours, and once you've determined your layout, work backwards toward an exit point, NOT insisting undue pressure of a fresh set piece. That's why I also suggest in your favour CUTS install till the end. unquestionably a 1/4 inch notched flat tooth rectangular "trowel" is common, and inkling with your appendage, those adjoining pieces, as okay as using a level.
I also use a polyblend grout, and BOTH mortar and grout mixed no thinner than a mash potato consistency. If you can POUR the substances, then you mixed them too watered-down.
Given interior heat/cool situations, 24 hours should be sufficient to WALK ON, and originate grouting. Hopefully in that process, you'll do that and the mortar/set, within small areas at a time, 6, 9, 12 tiles, as an example. Grout WIPING should be a standard $2 specific sponge, a rectangular Rubberized squuegie trowel, and done in 3 stages. Initially JUST moisten, then as the grout sets, you can increase the moisture within the wipe. By the 3rd time, just QUIT. The residue will be a DUST, slickly mopped away after the fact. Allow no smaller number than another 24 hours for GROUT SET, and Pick up and carry, anything to set on the floor, OR within the case of a stove or refrig. use a handtruck.
I occasionally SEAL grout, but certainly near are products stated to do so. The issue I have near them is that they require regular re-sealing. That's pretty much a personal choice, not a Tile law.
Steven Wolf
I hold done flooring in times past, you do not need to trowel any cement or thinset inbetween the subfloor and the backerboard. You do want to create sure that is as height as possible and secured with screw, not nails. Also, when you lay out your tile, try to sort sure that you don't match any tile seam with your underlayment seam to avoid cracks in the grout.
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