When installing a pre-hung, pre finished interior door, where on earth do you fastener?
Answers: Is it a split-jamb prehung? If so, you fastener through the pre-installed door stops. If not, I suppose you could go to the trouble of removing the stops, nail, then re-attaching the stops. Be carefull though, if the stops are fingerjoint fabric, you could split it at the fingerjoint.
You nail through the jam and set the nail beside a nail setting tool. consequently putty and sand then prime and paint.
That's what I usually do, or I in recent times cover the screw hole with some wood putty. The nice finish you refer to is lately primer and should be painted anyways
remove hinges and pin behind them or use 1 longer screw in respectively hinge or you can nail thru covering which is the trim or use 18 gauge fastener on door side of stop where it meet the jamb
screws will allow for adjustment if you obligation more shims.
removing hinge pins is a good alternative.installing hinge side first After alighning and fitting to meet adjectives your needs.
after you can mount the door for the pre cise fit ,and finish secureing knob/handle side with what ever shims, giant - low or top .
Before you do anything you must shim (thin wooden wedges) the door while it is still in the shield and level it using shims contained by 3 places on each side and two places on the top and two on the bottoms of the crust to get it rotten the floor 1/4" to 1/2 inch depending on how high of clearances you have need of for the type of flooring you have.
Then you can get underway the door and nail or screw the cover to the rough frame. Then either set the nail with a fastener punch or screw the screws surrounded by farther and putty the holes to match the stain if it is stained.
Using long screw is better than nailing because you can construct adjustments to the cover as needed to level it, or suck surrounded by one side, or whatever wishes done to make the door unstop and close easily.
If you consequently lightly sand the finish (if it is stained), you can later re-spray the finish lightly (after wipe sown with tack cloth to remove adjectives dust) with Deft or some other class of spray finish.
If it is just primed, putty the holes, hang around until the putty dries, sand, re-putty if necessary, sand and later paint.
If you remove the hinges as one being suggested and screwed longer screws within then your crust would only be attached to the rough frame on one side and the rest of the door shell would fall out of the frame. And approaching another said the door stops (unless it is a stain grade door) are finger jointed and will more than possible break if removed. And if they don't break then you will own pry marks to matter with.
After your door is firmly attached, nail or screwed then you saw past its sell-by date the shims flush with the outer layer, leaving the shims surrounded by place, and finish the casing beside door trim.
Be sure and set the trim 1/4" out from the inside of the casing doing the sides first and after the top. The 1/4" set back of the door trim is so the trim clears the strike plate (which is curved outward slightly) for the door latch.
You would still enjoy to nail the door stop put money on on. Nail through the door stop where you put your shims.3 nail for each set of shims. One on the door stop and one respectively side of it. Otherwise your shims will spin when you go to cut them stale.
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