Need suggestion for fence constructed totally above ground because of shallow pipes and wires.?
Answers:
Try using large plastic tubs with dwarf trees in them or privet, buy the square tubs so they can be clipped together or screwed down onto one continuous board.
Other answers:
stone fences like they have over in england. thats the only fence that i believe can be done with out support from post or some kind of footing.
stone fences like they have over in england. thats the only fence that i believe can be done with out support from post or some kind of footing.
Stone walls will sink over time. They also become a haven for snakes and mice. I wouldn't recommend them unless these sorts of critters don't bother you.
If the whole thing absolutely must be above ground, you can make a fairly stable post by taking 4' square CCA plywood and making a post "hole" in the center with a tightly fitting socket made from lumber. The post can then be fitted into the socket, and screwed or nailed into place. That would allow you to make a sectional fence of any sort, would be fairly stable except in the worst weather, and can be easily moved in sections if you need to dig up the pipes for some reason.
The ugly part is the 4' square base, but I think you could use them fairly effectively as flower boxes if you're the gardening type... (That may also help appease your neighbors.)You could even use them to support built-in seating along the perimeter of your yard.
You could use the same technique to make a chain link fence by using pipe fittings and pipes from the hardware store, but you will need to make the sections with sides and a bottom for stability. Also hiding the bases will be a bit more problematic.
Looking forward to hearing other suggestions. Sounds like an intriguing problem.
-SD-
Certainly wood seems to be the best option. In the case of "ugly", I suspect you can diminish that with plants etc.
Is the fence needed in an area where it will have no available support structure at either end? Is the fence design for aesthetics, privacy, containment, or to keep out critters?
The Posts should be substantial, but more for time they might have to last, than what they may be holding up with regard to creating a wooden fence. 4 x 4 pressure treated, and at a height you are allowed or wish the fence to be. I'd add the width of a 4 x 4 (approx. 3 5/8 inch) to the verticals, and cut sections of 4 x 4 that will act as a foot at the ground level. I might initially attach these "Feet" using a framing square, with a clamp. Then drill through both 4 x 4's, and insert galvanized carriage bolts at the appropriate length, then a washer and nut. Tighten until secure, check the "square" and stand up.
Using your own best judgement and design, then decide how far apart you might want each post. YOU don't state the length the fence needs to be. Evenly spacing as many verticals as you feel you need, at 6 ft or 8ft on centers perhaps, then decide the horizontal material.
Without knowing many other details here, you might consider;
Is this to contain?
Is it for privacy?
Is it on a lot line?
Are there codes to investigate?
Will it be portable?
How concerned are you with aesthetics?
Backing up,,,
You can use treated 2 x 4's at an appropriate length, for the horizontals, or treated decking lumber, at approx 7/8 inch thick. To attach I'd probably begin with galvanized decking screws. The horizontals will support any side sway, and give you some level of privacy, containment, a place to allow vines to grow, etc.
Also backing up; If there are structures where you can attach the fence at one or both ends, do so, for added support. The "Feet" I mentioned might have to be 3 ft, to avoid the fance falling over, but can be supported too with cinderblock, and/or diagonals attached. You could even try just putting the 4 x 4 verticals into cinder block.
You could use stockade panels, but wind resistance and weight would suggest burying the verticals.
Rev. Steven
Certainly something I'll consider in my bidding jobs.