I'm building a garage. How do I square up the stakes to start building?
Answers:
I'm assuming that youre talking about the corner stakes. These can be squared by measuring diagonally from the RIGHT REAR corner to the LEFT FRONT corner and then from the LEFT REAR corner to the RIGHT FRONT corner. When these measurements are EXACTLY the same, youre stakes are square, ( if youre 1/4" different then youre NOT perfectly square ). Next, run a string between each of these corner stakes and pull it tight, secure the string at each corner with a finishing nail at the desired finish grade, this string will provide your straight-line for the remaining stakes, which should be spaced about every 12 - 18" ( as long as youre going to use a sturdy forming material like 2 x 4's ). "Grade pins" can be set in the center of the slab by placing the pins ( usually a pieces of rebar ) in the desired locations of your intended slab and then stretching a string between the edge forms ( which should already be set up at the desired finish grade ... 3-1/2 - 4" is the norm for a homeowner type garage slab ) at each pin location. Drive each pin down until it JUST clears the string. You can also check and adjust your subgrade ( the stone layer that you will be pouring onto ) with the same string and a measuring tape to measure between the string and stone at any location in the form, ( If your side boards are set up for a 4" thick slab then a string stretched between any of the sides should measure 4" above the stone level. If its GREATER than 4", your only consequence will be that it will take more concrete than you figured ( and more money ), if its LESS than 4", it will take less concrete but will also weaken the finished slab.
One more thing, USE STEEL WIRE or WIRE MESH reinforcement or at least FIBERMESH. I did NOT use steel in my driveway but, OVERDOSED the fibermesh at 3 bags per cu. yd. ( instead of only 1 ), and DO NOT pour the concrete overly WET ( NO MORE THAN A 4 or 5" SLUMP ) Wet concrete pours easier and is less work to finish but is also SIGNIFICANTLY weaker in many aspects. A way to dramatically increase the slump of the concrete ( for a limited amount of time - about 30 minutes ) is the addition of a "SUPERPLASTICIZER". Its a little pricey but, alot cheaper than pouring watered down concrete and having crack and scale. Ask your ready-mix concrete supplier for prices on fibermesh ( usually around $6 - $8 per bag / per cu. yd. ) and superplasticizers.
I know you didn't ask for an in depth tutorial about pouring concrete but, there's alot more to it than most people know and, I'd rather give you MORE info than not enough. Hope this helps and good luck !
Other answers:
The easiest way is to use a 3,4,5 triangle.Get a few 2x4s and mark off 3', 4' and 5 and arrange them in a triangle with those lengths as sides. the 3' and 4' sides will meet at right angles. To be more accurate, use 6', 8', and 10' sides.
What you are doing is making a giant right angle triangle and using it as a square to determine the sides of the building. Just be sure you measure the lengths accurately and put it together accurately. drill holes in the exact centers of the sides that are the correct distances apart and bolt the thing together. You can use any proportion of 3,4,5 for the sides.
The easiest way is to use a 3,4,5 triangle.Get a few 2x4s and mark off 3', 4' and 5 and arrange them in a triangle with those lengths as sides. the 3' and 4' sides will meet at right angles. To be more accurate, use 6', 8', and 10' sides.
What you are doing is making a giant right angle triangle and using it as a square to determine the sides of the building. Just be sure you measure the lengths accurately and put it together accurately. drill holes in the exact centers of the sides that are the correct distances apart and bolt the thing together. You can use any proportion of 3,4,5 for the sides.
build the box to your exact measurements (20x20 or 24x24 what ever) stake in one side where you want it then measure corner to corner in an X pattern those measurements will be the same when it is square.
would suggest you need expert help to set out and level.
Otherwise set up profiles outside of corners, then when you have parallel string lines attached you can chack the diagonal measurements where the string lines intersect at corners, if the diagonal is equal its square, if not you need to adjust till they are equal and recheck that the parallel lines are still correct to the garage size
Go with Terry L answer. To add to it, I'll assume you want the garage to be squared on the property with the house,,,if in fact a house exists...OR you could square it initially against the property line if the garage is an unattached structure.
When you have your first 90 degree angle and the general measurement of the slab or framed area then do as Terry stated and in an x, measure from corner to corner,,,opposite. When the measurements are equal then the building will be square at its base.
Rev. Steven
Easiest way is to measure corner to corner then measure from one corner diagonal to other corner until they are the same.