suggestions for moulding transitions... what would you do???
THANKS!!
Answers:
The easiest way to do this is to use a plinth block at the doorway to dead-end your base trim into. A plinth block, in this case, is just a decorative block of wood that the base trim butts into, ending the trim run at the doorway, no need for a transition. Do not put anything inside the doorway, just on the walls on either side of it.
Other answers:
I don't know what style the rooms are, so it's hard to say. Clearly though, you do need some kind of base in the doorway; ideally, this transition piece would connect seamlessly with the base on either side. Assuming the base in either room is of the same style, the middle piece would be of the same style. Take some of your 6" stock, cut it to length, and then cut that piece so that it is hall height on one end, and dining room height on the other. If you want to avoid a bunch of tricky angles, run your wall pieces long, say, have them sticking past the corner 3/4", or however thick the base is, then run your angled piece tight to either side, in a flat joint. Fill it well, give it a few coats of paint, and no one will ever know. If you have non-square base, you may forced to use a 45 degree joint (the sheetrocker should take special care to finish the doorway with true right angles, this makes angle cuts far simpler). If, ultimately you have to fudge the joints, a utility razor can sometimes be used to carve the corner so it looks right. If possible, cut all three pieces before you attatch them, and see how they fit.
I don't know what style the rooms are, so it's hard to say. Clearly though, you do need some kind of base in the doorway; ideally, this transition piece would connect seamlessly with the base on either side. Assuming the base in either room is of the same style, the middle piece would be of the same style. Take some of your 6" stock, cut it to length, and then cut that piece so that it is hall height on one end, and dining room height on the other. If you want to avoid a bunch of tricky angles, run your wall pieces long, say, have them sticking past the corner 3/4", or however thick the base is, then run your angled piece tight to either side, in a flat joint. Fill it well, give it a few coats of paint, and no one will ever know. If you have non-square base, you may forced to use a 45 degree joint (the sheetrocker should take special care to finish the doorway with true right angles, this makes angle cuts far simpler). If, ultimately you have to fudge the joints, a utility razor can sometimes be used to carve the corner so it looks right. If possible, cut all three pieces before you attatch them, and see how they fit.