how do you finish an oak entry door?
Answers:
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Other answers:
sand it w/ a sander.
Take a tacky cloth, and wipe it down to remove all the saw dust
feel and make it is smooth enough/ use steel wool pad if needed to get the smooth texture you want.
if u are going to paint it// then u need to add a coat of Kiltz to it, and sand it again.
If u are going to stain it, ,you need to pick out the stain, and buy some lint free cloths, along w/ sponge throw away brushes, and some polyurethane finishing gloss ( matte/ semi gloss which ever, and it should be oil based since it is going to be outdoors.)
You need to make sure the color is what you want before tackling the job.
You dip the brush in the stain, wipe a little area w/ the brush, and wipe it off w/ the dry clean cloth ( can be purchases at Lowe's.. the employees should be able to set you up w/ all of your supplies.
I would go on line, and read up on it,, so you can see what all is involved.
It isn't hard at all,, if you take your time, and prepare the are like you should,, and don't forget to either get a stain w/ a top coat included, or put on it..
You can get a matte, semi-gloss or whatever finish you want. ( i wouldn't get a gloss)
sand it w/ a sander.
Take a tacky cloth, and wipe it down to remove all the saw dust
feel and make it is smooth enough/ use steel wool pad if needed to get the smooth texture you want.
if u are going to paint it// then u need to add a coat of Kiltz to it, and sand it again.
If u are going to stain it, ,you need to pick out the stain, and buy some lint free cloths, along w/ sponge throw away brushes, and some polyurethane finishing gloss ( matte/ semi gloss which ever, and it should be oil based since it is going to be outdoors.)
You need to make sure the color is what you want before tackling the job.
You dip the brush in the stain, wipe a little area w/ the brush, and wipe it off w/ the dry clean cloth ( can be purchases at Lowe's.. the employees should be able to set you up w/ all of your supplies.
I would go on line, and read up on it,, so you can see what all is involved.
It isn't hard at all,, if you take your time, and prepare the are like you should,, and don't forget to either get a stain w/ a top coat included, or put on it..
You can get a matte, semi-gloss or whatever finish you want. ( i wouldn't get a gloss)
the above post is pretty good, but polyurethane can be difficult to work with.
sand your door, wipe it, stain it, let it dry. apply a coat of sanding sealer, let it dry. sand it, it'll turn kind of chalky white. then apply a coat of laquer and you're done. also, you can thin you laquer with some thinner and it goes on easier. 5:1 ratio laquer:thinner.
*this answer ended up being a bit longer than I thought it would*
In addition to the help already given, I would offer the following advice.
First, do not use the stain/poly combo. Use the an OIL stain, then an OIL poly.
Clean the door (do not use water), Just wipe it down. I preffer those green scotch pads instead of steal wool, but that is just a prefference.
I would skip the brush, and put on some rubber gloves, and just dip the rag in the stain and wipe it on. Make sure you stir the stain (do not shake it!) to get the sediment off the bottom.
When wiping the stain on the door, use long wipes, and eventually wipe the entire length of the wood grain. Wipe back and forth only with the direction of the grain (parallel to the lines). If you don't wipe the full length, you will leave lines. Make sure your wipes are completely straight also, no curves.
You are basically rubbing in the stain, so you don't want it to be thick like a coat of paint. If it is not dark enough for your liking, you can apply another coat after some time (check label).
If the door has the recessed molding in it, stain that first. You may have to glob it thick in the corners first, then wipe it clean, to make sure no running. By doing the recessed part first, you will eliminate brush (rag)marks. You will get stain on the rest of the door while you are doing the recessed parts. just lightly wipe those areas with the grain to remove excess stain until you are ready for those areas.
After the recessed areas, I recommend doing the wood in between the recessed areas. pay attention to the wood grain, as parts of the door will have it running different directions. When you wipe over these junctions, just make sure you carefully wipe the overlaping areas in the correct direction.
You will need to keep a couple of clean rags to wipe any mistakes you may make.
When you are ready for the poly-urethan, get an empty 1 gallon paint can, a 4 inch mini-FOAM roller, and a mini roller screen. Do not shake the poly! Stir it also, and pour about 25% of a gallon into the empty gallon container. Place the mini roller screen in it. Use a decent oil brush to first poly the recessed areas. The corners will drip. Roll the mini roller over the roller screen to moisten the foam roller. Generously apply the poly to the entire door. Next, lightly roll over the entire door, slowly. Do not apply a lot of pressure, let the weight of the roller roll out the thick areas. there will be bubbles, and you want to make those as small as you can. Use the roller to also get out any runs. You will need to keep an eye on the door. Check it every 5-10 mins for runs or 'sags'. Sags are when paint or poly (in this case) build up thick, and look like they will eventually run (looks like the wall is sagging in the area). These need to be addressed as soon as they are noticed.
After it dries (check label for recoat time), you will need at least one more coat. Run your hand over the door, and see if you feel any 'trash' in the poly. That is, any rough objects. After the first coat, there is usually some tiny sharp specs. Use a green scotch pad to wipe the door down and remove these. Don't worry about putting scuffs in the shine, the next coat will fix those.
Put on a second coat the same way as the first. You can put on more coats if you wish, follwing the same directions. The more coats, the more durable it will be.
Good Luck.
Sorry its so long, I just started typing and this is how it came out.
*** OH yeah, for exterior entry doors, make sure you seal the tops and bottoms to make sure moisure does not get in the door. it can cause swelling. You can seal them with poly.
Never, never paint oak.
Use an oil like teak oil, or use a microporous varnish like Sikkens
If you are finishing a new door the other posts have it about covered. The only thing I want to add is that your door will absorb oil from your hands. If it does when you stain the door the stain won't take where the oil from your hands is. Wear gloves when handling your door or you will have light and dark spots where the stain is not absorbing into the wood. Otherwise you should be good! Good Luck.....