How do you install spacing in headers when putting in a window?
Answers:
A header is normally a pair of pieces of lumber such as two 2 x 12's with a spacer of 1/2 plywood. This brings the thickness of the header to 3-1/2" the same as the 2 x 4 studs.
If your wall is framed with 2 x 6's then you can use three pieces of say 2 x 12 with two 1/2 inch spacers. This will give you a thickness of 5-1/2 inches to match the 2 x 6 studs.
I used 2 x 12's in this example because they are the most common choice for headers. Typically this arrangement is good for most single or two story houses with windows not wider than say 10 or 12 feet.
Other answers:
Okay this is not going to be short so put some coffee on! When you lay out the wall plates find the center of you window,lay out the window at five and half inches added to it.That is your header size.EXAMPLE: a 36" window will have a 41" header.Nail what is called king studs to the sides of the header,this will be a full size stud to hold the headser in place.Then cut two boards to fit inside the kings under the header to support the wieght. These are argued if they era called trmors or cripples either or they are necessary.Okay you should decide if your header is going to be nailed to the plate (up tight) or nailed at the top of the window hieghth,does not matter either way,just remeber to cut you cripples tight to the header. Now measure and cut a board (2x4 or 2x6 dependeing on the wall width) to place horizontally between the cripples, this is called a sill. Measure down off the bottom of the header to one inch max. of the the size of the window. layout some 2x's to fit under the sill. I always put one under each coner of the sill then match my 16" layout on my wall. There sould be a little spacing in window hole that is good,this is one instance where tight is not right! The header (depending on local codes) shouild be made of two 2x10's nailed face to faceor with 1/2" plywood between them and a 2x4 or 2x6 nailed face to edge on the bottomand if you want (again depending on local codes)on tp of the header.This is a lot to expalin with little space but I hope I answered all questions you might have about this.Good Luck
Okay this is not going to be short so put some coffee on! When you lay out the wall plates find the center of you window,lay out the window at five and half inches added to it.That is your header size.EXAMPLE: a 36" window will have a 41" header.Nail what is called king studs to the sides of the header,this will be a full size stud to hold the headser in place.Then cut two boards to fit inside the kings under the header to support the wieght. These are argued if they era called trmors or cripples either or they are necessary.Okay you should decide if your header is going to be nailed to the plate (up tight) or nailed at the top of the window hieghth,does not matter either way,just remeber to cut you cripples tight to the header. Now measure and cut a board (2x4 or 2x6 dependeing on the wall width) to place horizontally between the cripples, this is called a sill. Measure down off the bottom of the header to one inch max. of the the size of the window. layout some 2x's to fit under the sill. I always put one under each coner of the sill then match my 16" layout on my wall. There sould be a little spacing in window hole that is good,this is one instance where tight is not right! The header (depending on local codes) shouild be made of two 2x10's nailed face to faceor with 1/2" plywood between them and a 2x4 or 2x6 nailed face to edge on the bottomand if you want (again depending on local codes)on tp of the header.This is a lot to expalin with little space but I hope I answered all questions you might have about this.Good Luck
The guy above me laid it out pretty well but if I understand the question correctly, what you want to do is cut some 3"x10" strips of 1/2 plywood or osb (for a 2x12 header, if a smaller dimension, shorten the strips). Lay out your first header piece, crown away from you, and lay the 1/2" strips about 2" from the ends, and fill in the middle, spacing the strips about a foot apart (this doesnt have to be exact). Lay the second piece of header on top, crown away, flush all th edges, and nail through the strips. If you need to triple the header, just repeat steps two and three. If your header is 6 feet long or more, use a solid plywood or osb 10" rip cut 4" shorter than the length of the header, for added strength. When flushing up the header to nail, it is more important to get the top flush than the bottom, because unless it's a drywall wrapped opening, nothing ever comes in contact with the bottom of the header except the cripple, trimmer, jack stud (whatever term you use in your area). If the bottom is 1/4" or more in difference, just notch the wider board so that the cripple contacts both.
The guy above me says 2x10 with 2x furring underneath is standard in his region, which basically adds up to the size of a 2x12, which is what we standardly use in my region. In either case, the total header size should equal about 11 1/2" tall. This is the perfect height for doorways and to keep windows below below the eaves.
all good answers, try this if ur not experienced in construction. u can make ur headers out of 4 x 6 for a 2 x 4 wall or 6 x 6 if a 2 x 6 wall. that way no furring or worrying. put the 4 x 6 at the reg. height u want ur window and then just stud up from the top of the 4 x 6 to the top plate!
i built 3 houses in the last 4 years where the engineer called for this. not standard but passed all the codes. wouldn't do it on a window over 36" wide.
lic. gen. contractor