Refinishing next to MinWax?
Answers: Why do you inevitability that many coats ,deliberate ahead to the next time you want to refinish, Let the finish you already enjoy dry for a few days, or a week, then rub contained by some minwax wax finish,
Sure you can I did a Remington 10/22 with around 8 coates looked like it be glass contained by cased.
You can coat it till it is an inch thick if you want to, I don't dream up you should. Is this a working gun or a looking-at-gun? You may want to just finish sour with a wax polish. The thicker the finish the more unconcealed any damage or scratch will be. That's why I asked about working or looking at. The minwax is a terribly good product but is brittle, will chip smoothly. The thicker it is, the more easily it will chip. If it is a looking-at on the wall gun after it doesn't matter.
Don't use sandpaper..Use #000 steel wool (Extra Fine) within between layers of stain/finish. To be honest near you since it's a laminated stock, if you don't have the murkiness or darker shade you want after 3 coats,adding up additional coats won't product any difference. You would be wasting your time. Finish it with a satin clear Polyurethane spray approaching Minwax..No runs,no drips..no errors. PS.... I do this in my shop on stocks every week.Been near..done this!
Min wax isn't the best gloss, "Zar" would be a better choice but, you've already started, on the closing coat use a can of spray polyurethane for a better finish, use sand paper between coats NOT steel wool, you can't verbs it all rotten between coats, some is always departed behind, the add footnotes to is eventually going to wear off from use, if it get wet, you'll own little tiny rust spots all over the stock, and it will look close to "SH*T ! use BRONZE wool instead if you are going to go that route but, I would stay next to the sand paper (400 grt).
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