How should I prune my 16 year hoary weeping mulberry tree?
Answers: I did find a discussion thread on this when I searched online:
http://www.backyardgardener.com/forums/f...
At one point they said that you should never cut posterior more that 25% of your tree. I agree. It tends to be that solitary in infrequent circumstances should you ever cut more than approx. 33%. When cutting anything, it would be best to cut the growth you do not want adjectives the way put money on to its beginning or amalgamated. If it is a forked branch and you want half to run, cut it at the fork. If you want the whole branch gone, to the trunk. The thread also mentioned a bleach solution, I recommend this, but craft sure it is a 10% solution. 1 part bleach to 9 parts dampen. I believe that at the bottom of the thread there be additional links as to pruning methods, you might want to check those out. I'm a disciple of having your books, I enjoy tons (and I mean TONS) on plants, and yes, I certainly read them...LOL...you might want to look into one on shrubs and trees. They are often powerfully worth the money when it comes to caring for a superb plant, especially one that you have invested a decade and a partly (+) in! Hope this help!
Tough situation you are in. The tree requests to have nouns movement, water digestion, and room to grow. Severe cut backs repeatedly place a tree in shock and should be avoided. What you may want to do immediately is plan. Plan on what you want the tree to look like and prepare for your movements.
Do not even attempt to prune major branches until the tree have turned colors, leaf drop, or gone completely domant. What you can do very soon is to identify any dead, diseased, or crossing limb that you wish to remove. Do not be dismayed if you find that a third of the tree wishes removal. In addition, plan on removing any trial growth from the top of the tree. Mark the branches to be removed with a bright spray paint and put pen to paper the top growth with a bright ribbon or string.
Before outset the operation, make a three to four inch trench in the order of two foot from the dripline of the tree. In this trench you are going to put either a 10-10-10 beside minerals granular fert, or feeding stakes (your preference). This will kind the tree rebound within the spring. Keep the trench available for future feedings and do another surrounded by Mid-May.
A normal Chain Saw is fine for removing the top and most of the limb. You will need a dutiful ladder to receive to the root of the problem. You will need to hand-saw the removed limb at a 45% angle (45% from top) at least 1-2" from the trunk. You can purchase a tarmacadam based spray to cover wounds for trees, be off it alone, or I have found using a Citronela (mosiquito repellant) candle rubbed on the wound works purely great.
After the "surgery" use a hand pruner device to both lift up the tree and any growth you did not want. Again, plan the shape ahead of time. In the very hasty spring remove all growth from lower than the tree and mulch with a shredded hardwood mulch at two inches. Remove the growth to the trench. Place the mulch two inches from the trunk. Water so that the tree have 1" of water every week throughout the season. A Soaker hose placed below the mulch is ideal for this. Run twice a week will cause the fert, meet the wet needs, and invigorate the tree.
I am at gjgjobs@YAH00.COM. I realize this is a large amount of info and work. If you hire a tree company make sure they follow these instructions.
First, don't cut it hindmost to the trunk! That's topping and one of the most destructive things you can do to a tree! No, short of cutting it down, it IS the most destructive article you can do!
Topping is what you describe. If you had started this when the tree be young and made like total cuts every year at the same spot building up a mighty callus knob in the process, the procedure would be pollarding and that's fitting.
Second, no pruning paint! It causes more problems than it solves.
Third, none of this head off 1-2 inches when cutting! Learn in a minute to prune correctly! http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos...
Now, as for what to do beside this mess.....most people don't mess beside weeping mulberries. The task is daunting.
First, anything on the ground is unprejudiced game for removal.
Second, look for crossing or rubbing branches and remove the wounded stern at it's insertion. (where does it begin......it possibly the trunk or a side branch)
Third, thin as you conjecture necessary throughout the entire sun shelter. Most people just work a tree until their ladder give out. Actually you should take more from the top than from the bottom.....but later who of us has a hydraulic lift up to get up within?
Fourth, don't strip out the middle, it's called lion's tailing and puts adjectives the foliage weight out at the tip when it should be closer to the trunk.
Frankly beside a weeping mulberry I'd get thru step two and phone up it quits.
NO!!! that is what my gardener friends and i would ring "a hack job" and that's one of the most distainful things we can say just about another gardener's work, to be honest. don't do it. listen to fluffernut. please. proper pruning is great, it's a boon to the beauty and form of a tree, but "topping" is a trajedy, and a trees never recover from it, even IF they live.
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