Racing Lawnmower?
Answers: Im currently tinkering on a 8o's Murray lawntractor, its using ( for the moment) a 14HP briggs OHV motor (stock) , stock 6 speed transaxle ( for the meantime) , golf kart wheels/rims, tapered bering hubs on front wheel. The trick is less drag, consequently its faster- the stock front wheels w/o berings will slow you waaay down, plus be a delicate spot, at least look for some next to the internal berings. Currently im using the basic drive belt setup/stock clutch setup beside extra tensioner pulleys for no slippage, a 6" cast pulley on the motor, a 4" pulley on the transaxle, it get me near 30MPH contained by this setup. Obviously the deck is gone , was adjectives rotten when i bot it. I dont suggest leaving the deck on , specially not contained by running form- remove the blades/spindle assys- being a showing shell would be okay tho - most racers cut them up and just bolt the sides of the deck to the floorbord( for the look of a deck and smaller amount weight).
Next step is a 18HP flathead twin cylender Briggs i got sour a 92 MTD - im hooking a 'snap back throttle 'setup on it, using a illustrious flow air filter feature ( bypassing stock air cleaner assy), possibly a slightly larger engine pulley, meybe a 1/2" smaller trans pulley. Right presently my limitations are in the trans, for speed option, once it lets be in motion, ill swap a 90 amount right angle drive unit within , run a chain setup to a straight axle flipside end and own to use a go kart clutch or torque drive setup ( since no tranny will be there) . This isnt setup to see , this is for personal experementation, I do have to incorporate a few saftey issues here tho:
1. Brakes - use a set of GOOD aftermarket go kart brakes, stock brakes wont work at those speeds ( trust me, things come at you mighty vigorous with no brakes)
2. Id suggest not bypassing the governer, unless its be highly machined to acept the extra RPMs, theyre with the sole purpose designed for 3,000 max RPMs, theres a chance the flywheel could shatter , not to mention how hurried parts would fly from the motor overevving it. You can get alot of speed near a goverener on it ( mines still on it and it runs 30MPH)
3. Wear a helmit and saftey gear! I wear a helmit when i drive my tractor- you only come near one brain and it scrambles uncomplicated!
4. Have some welding done : Id suggest strengthing alot of the parts on the tractor, steering, front spindles, chassis. You can buy or product a set of front spindles that are stronger then stockers and they adopt a go kart type hub for those wheel. A differnt type of steering should be used as well, the step kart type is stronger and better then stock - you dont want to be flying around and hold it break on you.
5. Build the tractor low, the lower the better, when its too far off the ground, its top indigestible making it easier to tip over on you, the lower/wider the more stability.
6. I have to add on this one as well.... adjectives sense. Dont drive on the streets or roads, if you hold alot of property, then use it near. You dont want to be pulled over by the police on a lawntractor ( its not a leagal motor vehicle for the streets) , or worse, get run over by a saloon. If you really want to race them beside others, join a lawntractor race group in your nouns ( yes they have them) theres specific guidelines to setup your tractor, but its for saftey purposes - use google for one within your area.
7. Id also suggest a different thing - a saftey put to death switch - id suggest the one that hooks to your arm( similar to new snowmobiles/jet skis) and a form switch. That way, if y slip and crash down off the tractor wont hold running.
8. You mentioned a straight pipe, motors need a enduring amount of backpressure to run right, I have a straight pipe on mine for presently, i plan on using some threaded black pipe and fittings to run it down n under the floorbord - a instrument to tell how long to sort it? At first, make it a bit long, spray some white paint on the pipe and run the motor for a bit, where on earth the paint turns brown is where to cut it. With the twin cylender and twin pipes - it should look sweet, i plan on looking for some chrome drain pipe( for bathroom sinks/ect) to cover the black pipe.
This tractor is certainly my second, the first was a elder Craftsman with a 14.5HP OHV Briggs, till the 5 speed trans locked up, consequently i made the Murray. The next one will be a screemer, out of a ancient Wheelhorse Raider 10, lowered , near full blown race setup and using a 16HP tecumseh motor with grease pressure ( oil pressured motors are better for race setups) , plan on using go kart wheel, spindles, steering, full chain drive, straight backside axle and the right angle gear drive ( its a 1:1 unit, used on bush hogs, enclosed space mowers).
Kidd
OOOOOOOOOOh, is it a BINFORD ???
You'll find that you bog the engine down when trying to MOW while racing.
Lawnmower race... you have to cut grass as you stir.
So it might have get-up and progress while the mower deck isn't being driven... but this won't win race.
If,you're only 14yr.s prehistoric and can go that philosophical into detail.Just make it begin.
Good luck to You have a apt time give it more power Tim the tool man.
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